Welded flower, not knit



Well, I do more than just knit. I’m a welding pre-apprentice and I’ve been coming up with projects to do in class. I made a flower, my cousin makes them, and I got instructions. I used a Mig welder, oxy-acetylene torch, plasma cutter and some power tools. The hardest part was bending it into shape because I had a very hot torch in one hand, each layer clamped to the booth, and heated it up, and then bent it up with pliers, starting at the bottom part, so the tops fit in. I started a second today.

aviThe pic above is finished. It still needs to be cleaned up, painted with rust proof paint and whatnot. Here’s a pic of it after bending, before welding. I used hot rolled steel.

Welding is wicked fun. The bottom is me in my gear before I welded the flower to the stem.weld1

Triple -Z “Emergency hat”, cowl, earwarmer, on the knitting loom


Off the loom and seamed

The lovely Renee from the Invisible Loom just added a new pattern called “Triple-Z”, which is based off a knit pattern called “Emergency Hat”. On her blog she features the pattern and it’s also available for free on Ravelry. (Here’s the needle knit version, whih is also free)



The drawstring tied in a bow

The hat is made sideways and seamed together at the end. The seaming was the most confusing part to me, but I got it done. It’s a hat, a cowl, and an earwarmer, in one. The trick? You knit it sideways, increasing on one end and decreasing on the other (always have the same # of pegs with stitches, though) so it “walks” around the loom. I would recommend a round loom.


Folded and worn as a cowl

On knit rows, a simple k2tog (knit two together) yo (yarn over) or K/K->K (as in the pattern) makes an eyelet to thread a drawstring through. This is where the magic happens. Once the Triple Z is cast off and seamed, you make a drawstring (I used i-cords over two pegs) or use ribbon, and you can wear the Triple Z in a variety of ways.


Ear warmer

So far I’ve made two and am halfway through on a third. Variegated, slow striping yarn is recommended. For my first one I used Knit Picks Chroma Worsted, which is wonderful, and a worsted weight orange yarn to add a pop to the hat. For my second, I found some old Bernat variegated wool in nice colours, so I used that. It’s really unique. It’s so warm and cozy.


Hat 2.0

The pattern is free, but donations are accepted. They go towards Frankie Brown on Ravelry, who created the needle knit pattern. Renee’s pattern also includes links on how to donate. The money goes towards Frankie’s charity work.


The pattern calls for a 3/8″ loom with at least 51 pegs. This is because 50 pegs are cast on, but you do have 51 stitches on sometimes. (Read the pattern, it’s very easy to understand) I used the AKB 4-in-1 Hat loom, with 56 pegs. For the one I’m currently working on, I’m using bulkier yarn and using 35 pegs on the 51 peg 1/2″ CinDwood adult hat loom.

I can make one of these in a day, and it’s pretty simple. Knit, purl, increase 1, decrease 1, knit 2 together (Knit peg A, move the loop to peg B, knit over, knit the peg, continue) and a knitted cast off. It’s super fun, versatile, and looks so good. I want to make a million. So check out the patterns and try it!


Knifty Knitter Bulky Beanie/Tam How To/Tutorial/Pattern

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHere’s a new beanie I made today, sideways on the green (36 peg) Knifty Knitter loom with a peg spacing of 5/8″. So you’ll need a pretty bulky yarn. I’m sharing this tutorial with you because I love this hat, and hope you can make one you love, too. I used Loops & Threads Country Loom yarn in “Shale”. I got it on sale at Michael’s for $6.99 a couple weeks ago. I love bulky projects, because they’re so quick. I’ve been mostly knitting on a 3/8″ or 1/4″ loom lately, I got this done in 2 hours. It’s a pretty basic pattern.


Level: Confident Beginner

What You Need to Do

  • Crochet cast on (e-wrap cast on also works, but this is better for seaming)
  • E-wrap knit (in the pattern)
  • Purl (P in the pattern)
  • Wrap & Turn (W&T in the pattern) You lift the peg up from the specified peg, wrap the yarn around it like a half stitch and then place the pre-existing peg over it.
  • Short rows are used, also. This means you knit a specified number of pegs, turn, and go back the other way.
  • Knitted cast off: This works best for seaming. I will explain it at the end.


The Pattern

Crochet cast on 22 pegs (this is for a small hat, for a medium, add 3 pegs, for a large, add 6) from Right to Left: Clockwise.

The first peg you cast on, on the right, is Peg 1. The last peg you cast on, on the left, is peg 30.


The hat, cast off, measured from side to side (bottom) in inches.

Place a stitch marker on Peg 4, Peg 22 and Peg 13. These show where the brim starts/stops, the ending of the short rows, and the marker on Peg 22 should be movable. This helps you keep track of what row you’re on. The entire  set of pegs is knit and purled, there is only one slip stitch (skip the stitch) at the first row.


The hat, measured from top to bottom (after being cast off, before being seamed) in inches


R1: Sl1, Knit all
R2: Purl 4, K 17, W&T 21
R3: Knit 17, W&T peg 4
R4: K 16 W&T 20
R5: K all (to peg 1)
R6: Purl 4, K 15, W&T 19
R7: K to 15, W&T peg 4
R8: K 14, W&T 18
R9: K all (to peg 1)
R10: Purl 4, K 13 W&T 17
R11: K 13, W&T peg 4
R12: K 12, W&T 16
R13: K all (to peg 1)
R14: Purl 4, K 11, W&T 15
R15: K 11, W&T 4
R16: K 10, W&T 14
R17: K all (to peg 1)
R18: P4, K to end

The hat is made up of wedges. Repeat rows 1-18 a total of 5-8 times (depending on bulkiness of yarn, size of your head, tightness of stitches, this is an estimate, I have a tiny head, so I made 5 repeats, but it could have used 6. Oh well) and then use the Knitted Cast Off and seam the hat.

Knitted Cast Off (with pics)OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Step 1: You are at peg 30 now, for easiness, we’ll now call this peg 1. Wrap peg 2 (which is to the right of it) and knit the bottom loop over the top)

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAStep 2: Move the stitch you just knit on Peg 2, to peg 1, and knit over.
Step 3: Move peg 1 to peg 2.
You have now cast off one peg.
Repeat until there is one peg left on the loom. It’s easier than it sounds. See pics.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn the last remaining loop, cut the yarn to a good length, and use a tapestry needle to pull up over the peg, through the loop, and cast off the final peg, so they’re all off of the loom.

Seaming the Hat

Flip the hat inside out (either side could be the right side, it depends which you prefer) and the tapestry needle will be at the bottom of the hat. Use your preferred stitch, and sew through each loop up until the top, knot the yarn, and it’s seamed! Weave in ends.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAYou can use pins to make seaming easier (so the hat doesn’t move around much, and you stitch to the correct opposite side) and once you’ve stitched it up, flip it inside out, and you hat is done!


A provisional cast on and off can be used. You can also place the cast on loops back onto the loom and then run the tapestry needle through them (be careful not to tighten to much, leave a loose seam) and then that is the wrong side of the hat (because it’s noticeable there is a seam) so flip it inside out and weave in ends.


One repeat is one triangular shaped wedge. You are wrapping and turning so there are no gaps in the finished fabric. You are making 2 rows to the hat part of the hat for every 1 row of the brim. The brim will look ribbed when cast off and seamed, and the hat will be all knits. Feel free to change the pattern around. This makes the brim half the size of the hat, making a beret, or tam. This is the easiest way I’ve been able to achieve this look.

I have a tiny head. A hat made on the 36 peg Knifty Knitter loom in the round, is almost big on me. I left measurements. This hat is knit sideways, and can easily be altered by changing the number of pegs. I gave the size that I used for my own head, which would fit a younger teen or older child.

Experiment with how this hat is worn. You can roll up the brim, wear it over your ears, make it more slouchy, and so on.

Feel free to share this pattern, but credit me. It is free, and always will be.

39 Days Till Christmas Mini Loom Knit Stocking Tutorial/Pattern

2Well, it’s about 11C (52F) out right now, I’m in southern Ontario, and in ’77 we had 5 feet of snow, literally, this day. Yesterday I was walking around in a t-shirt, jeans and work boots. Welding, gotta wear the work boots.

So I’ve been making these tiny stockings on my 15 peg CinDwood 1/2″ loom (with purple pegs, to boot!). To the left, there is my first stocking and the loom in question. Click to view it large. I’ll add the measurements and whatnot for the Knifty Knitter flower loom, which has 12 pegs, and I believe, is set at 5/8″ spacing. They’re knit in the round, very easy. Both looms should have the same results, size-wise, but on the 12 peg loom, you’re going to need bulkier yarn, or hold 2 strands as 1.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPattern Difficulty: Have you ever made a sock? If yes, you’ll have this done in 10 minutes. If no, I’ll show you a simple sock technique, which was the first and only way I learned to do socks, years ago, on the blue 24 peg Knifty Knitter loom. I don’t often make socks. I usually hate making them. Well, the second one. I do have a 44 peg 3/8″, 56 peg 1/4″ and Boye sock loom (70 something pegs, adjustable, 1/4″ spacing, but I broke a damn peg) See that? First time using it. Grr. To my fault, it had been in storage a while.

What you need:

  • 15 peg 1/2″ round loom (as the pattern is worked in the round) I used the CinDwood 15 peg 1/2″ round loom. She got rid of all her odd-number-of-pegs looms, so here is the closest thing to it. It has 14 pegs.
  • OR 12 peg 5/8″ round loom made by Knifty Knitter, here it is on Amazon.
  • An adjustable loom like the Boye sock loom (shown above, broken) might be able to do it, but you’d be working in a pretty tight space. Try it. You can always add more pegs, as adjustable looms seem to be finer gauges. My Cottage 20″ Adjustable is 3/8″ (118 pegs with extenders) and the smallest I could do would be 12 pegs. It’d be tiny though.


What if you have both? I have both! Actually, all 3! Check your yarn, if its thinner, it’d work better on a smaller gauge (peg spacing) loom like the CinDwood 1/2″. This means from the centre of peg 1 to the centre of peg 2, there is 1/2″ between. If you have very bulky yarn (I find worsted yarn almost not bulky enough for the 1/2″ looms, but I’ve been stuck in 3/8″ mode for a while) try the Knifty Knitter loom. You can use bulky weight on the 1/2″ loom and to make your yarn more bulky, you can double it by holding two, or more, strands as one. Now, where were we…?

More Stuff You Need 

  • Yarn, of course. My mom gave me some festive coloured yarns for the season, so I used those. In the example below, I used baby yarn in white for the white parts, two strands held as one. The red is Red Heart Super Saver, and is worsted.
  • Knitting Tool: For stitching, I use whichever one is closest. I love the new CinDwood ones, they’re sharp as razors, and I wrecked my left hand with the damn thing before grinding off the end at school, but it knit really well. It just got bloody.
  • Tapestry (or other large) needle for casting off.

What You Need To Know

  • E-wrap knit stitch. This is the most basic stitch, and looks great. You wrap the peg with the working yarn (which is attached to the skein) and then lift the existing loop up and over the peg. You can change knit stitches (there is also reverse purl/traditonal, flat, and u-wrap) but it will change the size of your finished stocking. It will be smaller.
  • Purl: This is one of the best things to learn. If you can knit and purl on a loom, you can do pretty much every pattern out there. Here’s a tutorial I made up a while back.  Check it out, video, stills, and text.
  • Double e-wrap cast on: Pretty easy cast on, all it requires is yarn and the knitting tool, no crochet hook. A standard e-wrap cast on is just e-wrapping each peg in the round, and then starting. I find this leaves sloppy edges. For the double e-wrap cast on, you make a slipknot, put it on the first peg, take the working yarn and wrap the peg, then lift the original loop (the slipknit) over the peg. Tug to tighten a bit, but not too much, then wrap the next peg twice, lifting the bottom loop over the top, like you’re e-wrapping.
  • heelThe sock heel: It uses short rows, decreases and colour changes, but it’s still really easy. I’ll explain in detail in the pattern.
  • Changing colours: If you’re using 2 different colours of yarn (or more!), which I recommend for the Christmas look, to change colours, you cut the working yarn on the loom (Colour A), then tie the next colour  (Colour B) to Colour A, knot it a couple times, make sure it won’t slide. This is how I do it. You can also cut Colour A, make a slipknot with Color B, put Color B on the peg you’re starting from, and then start e-wrapping with that. Note: Always knit a row after colour change, or else the fabric will get reversed, and you’ll see stitches on the outside. 
  • Gather bind off: The pretty basic bind off to remove a sock or hat. You take the tapestry needle, pull it up the peg, through the loop, and pull the loop off. Repeat on next peg, tightening the yarn on the needle as you go, and then again at the end so it’s even. This was the first I learned.

Now, for the pattern …finally…

The first number is for the 12 peg Knifty Knitter Flower loom. The second number is for the 15 peg CinDwood loom. ie: Cast on 12 (15) pegs

Cast on 12 (15) pegs in the round using the double e-wrap cast on and join in the round.

Colour A: The colour for the brim, heel and toe of the sock, white in my example.
Colour B: The main colour of the sock, red in my example.
Cast on 12 (15) pegs in the round in Colour A using the double e-wrap cast on and join in the round.
* You are working in the round until otherwise stated. You begin with colour A, going from the brim down.


Row 1: Knit all
Row 2: Purl all
Repeat rows 1&2 a total of 5 times, a total of 10 rows, ending in the purl row.
This is a very popular stitch called garter stitch.

Change to Colour B
Row 3: Knit all
Row 4: Purl all
Repeat rows 3&4 a total of 9 times, a total of 18 rows, ending in the purl row.

Change to Colour A
You will be flat knitting now, not in the round.
This is where things get a little complicated, but I’ll explain it as best as I can.
Once you’ve changed to Colour A, knit 7 (9) pegs
This is starting a short row for the heel. You’ll be using pegs 1-7 (1-9)
After you’ve knit the first 7 (9) pegs, turn (no wrapping required) and purl 7 (9) pegs back to peg 1
Turn from peg 1 and knit the same 7 (9) pegs. You’ve completed the first part.

This is where its a bit tricky.
Take the loop from peg 1 (1) and move it to peg 2 (2) and knit the bottom loop over the top on peg 2
Peg 1 will be empty
Take the loop from peg 7 (9) and move it to peg 6 (8), knit the bottom loop over the top on peg 6 (8)
Peg 7 (8) will be empty.
Knit peg’s 2-6 (2-8)
Turn and purl peg’s 2 to 6 (8 to 2)
Turn and knit peg’s 2-6 (2-8)

Now, take the loop on peg 2, and move it to peg 3. Knit over.
Peg’s 1 and 2 will be empty.
Then take the loop on peg 6 (8) and move it to peg 5 (7). Knit over.
Peg’s 6&7 (8&9) will be empty.
Knit pegs 3-6 (3-7)
Turn and purl pegs 6 to 3 (7 to 3)
Turn and knit pegs 3-6 (3-7)
Cut yarn

Now, this may confuse you. You just made an oval-like thing, but it need’s to be attached to the rest of the sock.
Reach down with your knitting tool, and grab the closest stitches (they aren’t on the loom) and place them on peg 1,2 and 3.
Peg’s 1&2 will have one loop, peg 3 will have 2.
Now, again on the other side. Place 3 stitches on peg’s 5 6 and 7 (7 8 and 9)

3Okay, the rest is easy.
Change to Colour B
Row 5: Knit all
Row 6: Purl all
Repeat rows 5&6 (in the round!) a total of 7 times, for 14 rows.

Change back to Color A, you have 4 rows left.
Row 7: Knit all
Row 8: Purl all
Do this twice, for a total of 4 rows

4Cut the working yarn, thread it onto your needle, and cast off using the gather cast off method mentioned above.
Flip the sock inside out, tie up loose ends, and weave in ends.

This pattern is free, distribute to anyone, for free.



Cowl, infinity scarf in project, fun new stitches for knitting looms thanks to The Invisible Loom’s Stitch Dictionary (for loom knitters) Bob

dictionarycoverThis year, cowls and infinity scarves are really trendy. I’ve never really knit them much before. I’ve frogged a few scarves because I just got bored of the repeats. So I find cowls and infinity scarves much easier to do, because there aren’t so many repeats, and I can finish them fast. I showed off my Tunisian Rib Stitch in an earlier entry, a mobius cowl I had made. Now I’ve got three more projects to share. But first, go check out The Loom Knitters Stitch Dictionary. It is worth it’s weight in gold, over 100 pages, detailed instructions, easy to read, every stitch imaginable and more.

Little Tents Infinity Scarf in Pumpkin


First is an infinity scarf (well, a small one) or a cowl (a big one). It can’t be doubled up, I knit it to about 40 inches. I used Little Tents from the Stitch Dictionary, one repeat over 17 pegs, with a peg at each end for a slip stitch (when starting a row) and a half stitch (to finish the row) I do this because it gives really nice edges. I didn’t use a provisional cast on because the pattern shows on the reverse side, and it would have been done on the wrong side.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI used my 66 peg CinDwood loom which is also worth its weight in gold. It’s perfect to fit over my knees while I knit and I can do 2 or more projects on it at once. It’s also great for shawls, which generally use around 60 pegs at the 1/2″ peg spacing. It’s one loom I definitely use. The yarn is called “Pumpkin” and is a good fall colour. It’s a little more brown in person, not so bright, but my lighting sucks at night when I take pics.

It’s a super easy stitch once you read it through, and looks decent in reverse, although I didn’t do a mobius cowl because I love the texture of the stitch itself. This stitch is on page 71 of the dictionary and can be done in the round or as a flat panel and doesn’t need a border.

Funky Chunky Double Woven Cowl in Pastels


Next is the Double Woven Chunky Cowl I started working on. The stitch is on page 69 and looks really cool. It’s super fast and super easy, too. I used 16 pegs on my 66 peg CinDwood loom (same as above) and I love the stitch. You do it in multiples of 4, +2. So basically, you take a number, divide it by 4, and add 2, to determine the number of pegs used. This can be confusing at times, but if you’re okay with simple math, it’s not bad.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAI always double check the pattern before casting on and make sure the stitches are all going to fit. It sucks when you miscalculate and have too many or too few pegs and have to frog and start over. So I used 16 pegs, but peg’s 1 and 16 are for the slip and half stitch, so 14 pegs for the pattern (14-2 = 12, 12/4 = 3, see, it’s simple!) It’s definitely going to need to be blocked. The stitch is beautiful and so simple, but watch out for snagging.

Wobbly Bobble Cowl in Earth Tones


The other project I’m working on right now is this chevron patterned cowl done by using a bobble stitch. What’s a bobble stitch? I do it differently than in the book, and there are a few methods. Bobbles are fun and can go anywhere. The pic to the left is from the dictionary. The bobbles appear on the front of your yarn.

How to bobble stitch (Craftasaurus way) 

  1. First, pick the peg you want the bobble on. E-wrap it, and knit over. You’ve just knit the peg.
  2. Take the loop you just knit and take the loop off the peg and put it on a holder, like a cable holder, crochet hook, pen, anything. I actually just move it to the peg beside it rather than fiddling around with extra stuff. It will be moved back.
  3. E-wrap the empty peg twice, and knit the bottom loop over the top. This is like a double e-wrap cast on.
  4. E-wrap the peg again, knit over, and do this 5 times (e-wrap, knit over. e-wrap, knit over) or until the bobble is the size you want it to be.
  5. Move the original peg that you knit (that’s on the other peg, or a holder) back to the peg you just bobbled. There are now two loops on the peg.
  6. Choices, choices. What I did was purled the peg using the 2 loops on it as one, or you can e-wrap it and knit the two loops over. You’re done!


So this is how far I’ve gotten. I’m on repeat 6, I think 12-14 repeats will do it. It goes fast after you get used to the pattern. The yarn is Impeccable Chunky Ombre in Earth. The stitch is a specialty stitch found on page 78. I used 2 repeats (11 pegs per repeat) plus a slip at the start of each row and a half stitch at the end of each row. So I’ve got 24 pegs cast on. It’s on the same loom as the double woven infinity scarf, multitasking!

Winter is coming, which is why I’m knitting so much. I’m from Southern Ontario, Canada, and it gets nasty and cold out here. I was taking a break from knitting on the weekend a couple weeks ago, mid-October, and it bloody snowed that day. One city lost power and everything shut down, like 7 inches of snow. Fortunately, that was far north of me. When I started knitting more and more, the temperature gradually went up. It was in the low 20’s (Celsius) or approx 68-74 Fahrenheit out yesterday.  So the more I prepare for winter, the more it’s going to go away!

Loom Knit Sideways Beret Pattern/Tutorial (FREE!)


This hat, Vanilla on the Side (Ravelry link, free pattern) changed the way I make hats. I posted a few posts with the zillion hats I’ve knit in the past little but, but I came up with a unique beret pattern. I’ve seen the hats that half a small brim, and a huge hat. I never get the name right. Is it slouchy? Beret? Beanie? Toque? So I google searched, and found out that what I made is more of a beret.

This is a pattern I made up using short rows on the knitting loom as a flat panel, rather than knitting in a circle. I was going to use my Cottage Loom, the 20″ fully adjustable loom (similar, but much stronger, than the All in One Knitting Loom, and all the patterns for the AIO can be used on the cottage. My Cottage Loom has 118 pegs total. I was going to cast on 30 pegs for the brim, do it in the round, and gradually increase by moving the slider out, until I had 50 pegs.

But I came up with a different way. Sideways. In short rows. Much easier. No fiddling with the peg sliders. It took a day. I used this yarn in Orchid Bouquet Variegated and used almost a full skein., 195 yards.

This pattern would be good for a confident beginner, best for someone intermediate, due to short rows, and wrapping and turning. A provisional cast on/off can be used, but I did not, because my mitts look great with it, but I’ve fucked up my hats with it. I will describe in as much detail as possible.


What You Need

  • About 170-250/ yards of yarn depending on the loom. I used chunky. I recommend a stretchy yarn. Not too stretchy, but with a bit of bounce.
  • 1/2″ gauge (peg spacing) knitting loom with at least 30 pegs. This makes quite a large hat, you can play with the number if you’d like. It’s huge on me. Add repeats for a bigger hat. This is done as a flat panel so it does not need to be round.
  • Knitting tool and crochet hook, as well as a tapestry needle for the bind off.
  • Optional stitch markers, one movable.


  • Sl 1: Slip one stitch. Basically, don’t knit it. This is only used at the beginning of some rows.
  • K: Knit (all knits are e-wrap knits. You can use whatever knit stitch you prefer, but the size will be different, and so will the stretch)
  • P: Purl. This is done by taking the working yarn underneath the stitch on the peg, putting the knitting tool through the stitch on the peg, grabbing the working yarn, pulling it through to make a loop, removing the existing stitch and replacing it with the loop you just made onto the peg. Here’s a tutorial. It’s easier than it sounds!
  • W&T: Wrap and turn. This stops gaps in fabric, and is important in short rows. Lift the stitch off the peg, take the working yarn behind the peg you just lifted the loop off of, wrap around, and replace the existing loop. After this is done, you are knitting in the opposite direction.
  • KTMM: Knit to movable marker. This includes the peg the marker is on.
  • KTM: Knit to marker. This marker is on peg 6.

The Pattern


One wedge done. See how the brim is narrow and the hat portion is double the size? This is how you get the beret effect.

Double e-wrap cast on 30 pegs from right to left (clockwise). You can use a provisional cast on if you prefer, or a crochet cast on. The double e-wrap cast on is done by wrapping the peg twice, knitting the bottom loop over the top, then moving to the next peg. Peg 1 is the first peg you cast on on the right, and Peg 30 is the last peg you cast on.

Place a stationary marker on peg 6 (brim), and peg 21 (last short row before beginning a new wedge).

Place a movable marker on peg 28.

You do not need to use markers, but it makes life easier.

Peg 1-6 is the brim of the hat. After casting on, you will be at the left, on peg 30.

1. Sl1, K all
2. P6, KTMM, W&T Peg 29. Move movable marker one peg to the right. It is now on Peg 28.
3. K22, W&T Peg 6, you are stopping at peg 7, wrapping peg 6, and then turning and going towards peg 30.
4. KTMM W&T 28 Move movable marker one peg to the right.
5. Knit 27
6. P6, KTMM W&T Peg 27 Move movable marker one peg to the right.
7. K20, W&T Peg 6
8. KTMM W&T Peg 26 Move movable marker one peg to the right.
9. Knit 25
10. P6, KTMM W&T Peg 25 Move movable marker one peg to the right.
11. K18, W&T Peg 6
12. KTMM W&T Peg 24 Move movable marker one peg to the right.
13. K 23
14. P6, KTMM W&T Peg 23 Move movable marker one peg to the right.
15. K16, W&T Peg 6
16. KTMM W&T Peg 22 Put movable marker back on peg 28.
17. K 21
18. P6, K to peg 30.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis concludes one wedge.

Repeat rows 1-18 8-12 times depending on the size of your head. I used 9 repeats. This depends on the thickness of your yarn.

Cast off using a knitted cast off if you aren’t using a provisional bind off.

Knitted Cast Off

Starting on Peg 30, move peg 29 to peg 30, and knit over. Knit peg 30 and move to peg 29.

Move peg 28 to peg 29, knit over. Knit peg 29 and move to peg 28.

And so on, until you get to peg 1, knit it, and grab a tapestry needle and cast it off the loom by running the needle through the last stitch. Seam together.


Remember the brim of the hat is going to be half the size (as you knit 2 stitches for the brim for every 4 for the hat) of the hat itself. This is why you’re wrapping and turning peg 6 on some rows. You are omitting the brim, and adding to the hat itself… sorry, this is hard to explain.

The brim will look like K1, P1 (rib stitch) when it’s done. The hat is just e-wrap’s (knits).

If you have any questions, post in the comments section.

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