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My mom and I have joined up and are posting our loom knit (me) and knit and crochet (mom) projects on our Facebook page. Coming to craft shows in the Niagara (Canadian side) region soon!

Here’s some more socks. The pattern is basic. K2, P2 for 8 rows for the cuff, then yo, K2tog (move the first peg to the second, yarn over it, not wrap it, knit the two loops on peg 2 as one stitch) P2, repeat around. Requires a loom with a multiple of 4 pegs. Used the 56 peg Knitted Knockers CinDwood 5/8″ loom.

More socks!


loomBring in the socks! But first, my new loom. 90 peg 3/8″ (fine) adjustable from CinDwood. And lots more sock yarn to pair with some I already have.

I haven’t used this loom yet, but I’m waiting to find the perfect project. Probably a sock yarn shawl made out of the coconut Sweet Feets.

I use my 56 peg 1/4″ fine gauge CinDwood loom for socks.

Now! For socks!

 

Some socks, some yarn, new loom


I made the first pair of sock with sock yarn that self patterns. The second sock (2nd in process) is called “Vanilla Latte Socks” found on Ravelry for free, basically “K6, P2″ around with a ribbed cuff and wrap and turn heel method. Then I got all my existing sock yarn some partners, since I had only ordered one skein before. The SweetFeet can make a full pair with less than a skein. I love it!  I also got the new CinDwood loom, a 9 peg 3/8” gauge adjustable loom. Love it!

2016-05-06 18.05.19 2016-05-06 18.06.08 2016-05-11 15.11.45 2016-05-11 15.11.25 loom

Super rainbow broke rib stitch socks/tutorial


2016-04-10 10.48.14I got the Knitted Knockers loom from CinDwood (also known as Premium Knitting Looms) and never really used it until the Ravelry sock a long. It has 56 pegs and they’re 1/4″ inch apart. For this tutorial, you’ll need a 1/4″ gauge, or even smaller (the KB Extra Fine Gauge works) or even 3/8″ if your yarn is a bit thicker, loom. I used one ball of Bernat Sox, in rainbow, and some of my huge ball off Loops n’ Threads Woolite, which is super fine. Beside is a picture of the loom with the anklet being worked. This loom is super easy to use, and very durable, and I was afraid of breaking pegs, as I’m a tight knitter, but it gives a lot.

2016-04-10 14.46.52First, what you need to know.

Crochet cast on (CCO) (simple tutorial). You will need a small crochet hook. This is, for me, the easiest and fastest cast on. Don’t let the name scare you, I can’t crochet to save my life and this is super easy,

E-wrap knit.(K) You can use any knit stitch, but this is the fastest, gives a lot of stretch, and looks good. If you use another knit stitch it will be a smaller sock. These socks fit women’s size 7-10 feet. Wrap the peg, bring the bottom loop over the top.

Purl. (P) The simple purl. Here’s a tutorial (not me)

Wrap and Turn (W&T) This can seem intimidating. What you do is lift the loop on the peg off on the last stitch worked, loop the working yarn around it, back to front, and then place the loop back on the peg. You can use a stitch holder, but I usually hold it with my loom pick. Here’s a good tutorial. This is used in making the heel and toe.

Turn (Turn) You wrap the peg the same way as a wrap and turn, except you don’t lift the stitches off the peg. You just wrap it back to front, then work the stitch before it. For a Wrap and Turn and Wrap, you start working in the reverse direction.

2016-04-10 12.25.00Here’s the pattern, it uses broken rib stitch. On all odd numbered rows, except for heel and toe, you’ll be knitting all on odd numbered rows, and doing broken rib stitch (K2, P2) on all even numbered rows. This requires a loom that has peg numbers in multiples of 4, but if you only have an even numbered loom, you can K1, P1. It will look different, but not much.

So, crochet cast on and join in the round. You’re ready to rock.

Row 1: K all

Row 2: (K2, P2)* around the entire loom. If your loom isn’t in a multiple of 4 (I use 56 pegs), (K1, P1)* around.

Repeat rows 1&2 12 times total, so you have a total of 24 rows. Then knit around once more, before starting the heel.

2016-04-10 14.47.07This is where it gets tricky. The heel uses short rows, W&T and Turns. But it’s my favourite part. This can be done in a second colour, or if you want, just do it in a single colour.

Put a marker on your middle peg, so your number of pegs divided by 2. Mine is peg 28. It’s a stationary marker and can help a lot. Change colours if you’re using 2.

For the heel, knit to peg 27 and W&T peg 28.

P back to peg 2 and W&T peg 1.

K back to peg 26 and W&T peg 27.

Purl back to peg 3 and W&T peg 2.

Keep doing this until you have 4 unwrapped pegs in the middle of that side of your loom. For my 56 peg loom, I repeated this 12 times. Now, you do the reverse.

K to the first wrapped peg, knit the peg with 2 loops as one loop, and wrap the peg beside it, but you don’t need to lift the existing pegs off it. This stops holes from forming. Working in the opposite direction, purl until the first peg with 2 loops on it and purl as they were 1, and wrap the peg beside it.

Continue until there are no more wrapped pegs, and knit to peg 28, which will have 3 loops (knit all 3 as one) and W&T the peg beside it (peg 29). Purl back to peg 1, purl the 3 loops on it, and W&T the last peg on your loom (for me, that was peg 56). This prevents holes.

The hard part is done!

2016-04-15 17.38.25Now, change colours if you wish, and do the foot pattern.

K all

K up to an including your stationary marker (so peg 28 for me) and then start the K2, P2* repeat until your final peg. (If your pegs aren’t coloured, place a stationary marker on peg 1)

Repeat these until you have 24 rows, then K all, if you’re changing colours. If not, ignore that. Change colours if you wish, I did because I was running low, and needed to preserve the rainbow for the second sock!

2016-04-15 11.50.02Now, if you changed colours, which I did, knit all, and start the above pattern again for the broken rib stitch. Do this 24 more times, measure your foot, and see if you want to go bigger. For the final row before the toe, knit all. I kept my toe in the same colour (black)

My shoe size is US 7 1/2 so I find 48 rows plus the toe fits.

Now, for the toe. Do the exact same thing you did with the heel. Go crazy with colours if you wish. You can use as many as you want. I chose to keep the toe in black.

2016-04-15 18.04.38Now you’re done. The hardest part is binding off and seaming, or doing a grafted cast off. I used the Kitchener Cast off. Here’s a good video by Cindy. You can cast all pegs off and sew a seam if you wish.

What I did was remove pegs 1-28 (1 to the centre peg) and put them, one at a time, on a piece of thicker scrap yarn. Then I folded it over, with the yarn on scrap yarn and put each loop onto the corresponding peg and worked the Kitchener Cast off. You can cast off any way you like.

Cast the sock off the loom, wear, and enjoy! My Kitchener didn’t go as well as I would have liked, but I don’t mind.

 

 

 

My first official fine gauge sock on a loom


I used the CinDwood 56 peg “Knitted Knockers” 56 peg 1/4″ fine gauge loom, with pink pegs! Done with the free Swizzle Socks pattern, on Ravelry. I had never really used this loom before. The pattern calls for multiples of 6, for 3×3 ribbing, but I made do with my 56 pegs. I’m using Mary Maxim sock yarn, in “Berries” and I love how it stripes. The wrap and turn method for the heel and toe are much nicer than the slipper socks I’ve made.

I did a Kitchener cast off. It’s not perfect, but it turned out pretty nice. Onto sock 2!

Growing Leaves Cowl Adapted For the Knitting Loom


IMG_0135I found this pattern in the free section of cowls, with charts, for needle knitting. Now I’ll show you how I did it for the loom. I’ll say its an intermediate pattern because the pegs get moved around a lot. It took me a day and a half to do, using 90 pegs in the round, and I love it.

This pattern may look confusing, so I included a chart. Once you’ve done a couple rows, it gets easier.

What You Need

  • A round loom (or loom that can be used in the round, like the All In One or similar) that has a multiple of 15 pegs. Each section is 15 pegs. So a 60 peg would work, I used a 90 peg loom, the 90 peg small afghan loom from CinDwood
  • Stitch markers aren’t necessary, but they sure help.
  • A crochet hook for cast on and bind off.
  • About 250-300 yards of yarn. I used worsted weight, size 4.
  • A tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Terms

  • K: Knit, e-wrap
  • P: Purl
  • YO: Yarn over. Take the yarn, place it in front of the peg, do not wrap, and continue on with your next stitch. You will be doing this on empty pegs
  • k2tog: Knit 2 together. After moving the yarn from peg to peg, some pegs will have 2 loops.Wrap the peg and lift both loops over as if it were one stitch.
  • When I have brackets like this [9>8, 8>7] it means move the stitch from peg 8 to peg 7, and then move the yarn from peg 9 to peg 8.

Beginning

Crochet cast on your multiple of 15 pegs (for me, 90 pegs) and join in the round. Place a stitch marker on every 15th peg. This is the last peg you’ll use in each of the 15 peg repeats.

Row 1-3: *(K2, P9, K2, P2) all the way around, repeating from *.

IMG_0137

Now to start the leaves pattern.

You’ll be back at peg 1.

The 16 row repeat

Row 1: *(K10, move yarn on peg 12> 11, peg 12 is empty. Knit the two stitches on peg 11 together, place the yarn in front of peg 12, don’t wrap, just yarn over (YO), K1, P2) Repeat around the loom.

Row 2: *(K9, [move yarn on pegs 11>10, 12>11, 13>12], K2tog on peg 10, k2, yo peg 13,P2)

Row 3: *(K8,[ 11>10, 10>9], k2tog on peg 9, k1, yo peg 11, k2, P2)

Row 4: *(K7, [12>11, 11>10, 10>9, 9>8], ktog on peg 8, k3, yo peg 12, k1, P2)

Row 5: *(K6, [9>8, 8>7], k2tog on peg 7, k2, yo peg 9, k4, P2)

Row 6: *(K5, [[11>10, 10>9, 9>8, 8>7, 7>6) k2tog peg 6, k4, yo peg 11, k2, P2)

Row 7: *(K4, [9>8, 8>7, 7>6, 6>5], k2tog on peg 5, k3, yo peg 9, k4, P2)

Row 8: *(K3, [10>9, 9>8, 8>7, 7>6, 6>5, 5>4) k2tog on peg 4, k5, yo peg 10, k3, P2)

chart

  • This is the second half of the repeat. You’ll be moving the pegs around opposite to before, so the yarn over will come before the knit 2 together.

Row 9: *(k1 , [2>3] yo peg 2, k2tog on peg 3, k10, P2)

Row 10: *([3>4, 2>3, 1>2], yo peg 1, k2, k2tog on peg 4, K9, P2)

Row 11: *(K2, [4>5, 3>4], yo peg 3, k1, k2tog peg 5, k8, P2)

Row 12: *(K1, [5>6, 4>5, 3>4, 2>2, yo peg 2, K3, ktog on peg 6, k7, P2)

Row 13: *(K3, [6>5, 5>6, 5>6, 4>5] yo peg 4, k2tog on peg 7, k6, P2)

Row 14: *(K2, [7>8, 6>7, 5>6, 4>5, 3>4], yo peg 3, k4, k2tog on peg 8, k5, P2)

Row 15: *(K4, [8>9, 7>8, 6>7, 5>6], yo peg 5, k3, k2tog on peg 9, K4, P2)

Row 16: *(K3, [9>10, 8>9, 7>8, 6>7, 5>6, 4>5) yo peg 4, K5, k2tog on peg 10, K3, P2)

Repeat the Beginning *(K2, P9, K2, P2) for 3 rows and crochet cast off, chaining one in between every stitch. You can use other bind offs, but this is my favourite.